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THE MASTERS SPEAK
Tom Curren could have been giving a tube-riding master-class out at Jeffreys Bay during the second day of competition. His long, pure, minimalist lines through the rifling barrels of the Impossibles and Salad Bowls sections of the famed Point, just down the line from the contest, were something to behold. Amid a busy pack of feverish pros, local rippers and amped groms, Curren was his own quiet point of stillness, standing almost completely stationary through some of the longest, deepest barrels of the day. Even when the mouths of the tubes pinched shut, he seemed to park himself back in the recesses of the barrel somewhere and find a high line out, squeezing through the narrowest of openings like toothpaste. The clash of the Icons heats may not have enjoyed the brunt of the swell, book-casing the three day’s of competition, before the waves had really come up the first morning, and as they faded on the final afternoon. But the reception Occy and Curren received from the crowd and the modern pros, and the fact that they remain tied at one-each, should guarantee this thing happens again. Bells at Easter, please Rip Curl? I managed to grab a few words with Tom after Parko won the final and the beers began flowing in the contest area. Then, just before the official presentation, I had a quick chat with Occy before he had to out on stage. He was in vintage form.
TOM CURREN
So, how did it feel being out in the water with Occ again after all these years?
Well, it was really interesting. It just brought back memories. One thing in particular was when he got this 8.67, he was paddling for the wave and the look of concentration on his face, he has this certain look that he gets, it just brought back memories. His upper lip goes back and I thought, okay, he’s going to trying hard on this wave. It was good.
Did you chat much out in the water?
A little bit, not too much.
The reception from the crowd and the other surfers must have been nice for you both.
It was great, really made the trip memorable. The waves were great. It’s really good to be here.
And your free surf yesterday looked pretty special.
It was great, just some amazing waves and the sand has kind of moved down the point and I’ve never seen it like that. A lot of the guys, even the locals, haven’t seen the sandbar quite like that before. The swell was pumping, there was a set about every three minutes, which is really rare. Just some of the most epic waves I’ve seen in a long time.
And your boys got a couple?
Yeah, yeah, they were out there having fun and getting into it.
You were known as the guy who kind of popularised or this alternative equipment, fishes and things. Are you enjoying riding more conventional equipment these days?
I pretty much ride normal boards now. If it’s real small and mushy I use a fun shape. I like to ride the new alaia boards, they’re a lot of fun. When I was surfing here (in free surfs) I was using a 6’8” pretty conventional kind of board.
(At this moment, Rabbit Bartholomew catches a set wave out at Supers and Curren moves towards the front of the boardwalk to take a look at the style of his old mentor, and mutters to himself, “Oh, Bugs”. In the backgrond, Occy calls out in a loud voice: “Rabbit Bartholomew.”)
How did it feel surfing a heat again? Were you nervous?
One thing I noticed for both of the heats, the waves just kind of stopped for a while. The last one was pretty close but I really made a couple of mistakes in the heat with wave selection and then kinda trying to get a barrel instead of running out to the front of the wave, and seeing how it goes down the inside. So, given that, I was happy with how I did and it was close. And even more, we’re still even, so ...
There might be a re-match?
I suppose there will.
Maybe at Bells?
It would be nice to go down to Bells and do a re-match down there.
Do the competitive juices bubble back to the surface pretty readily for you guys?
Yeah, for me it’s a really natural thing. Competing is something that I’ve done for so long that it takes a few little warmup sessions just to get to where my body’s loose.
Have you enjoyed being round all these guys (the current pros)?
Yeah, the guys are classic. You know, the vibe was good, the waves were amazing, especially yesterday and for the semis out here. Just the precision of the surfing being done is really great to see.
Do you notice many differences from your era? MR has commented that the surfers are all generally friendlier with each other than competitors back in his day? Is that true for you too?
I think a lot of that has to do with, (the fact that) generally surfers, when the waves are good, generally as a group and individually as well, are in a better mood altogether. So, I think that has something to do with it. It’s a good thing. I think everyone gets along well. It’s good. Rivalries go on but even with the most intense rivalry you’re still stoked to be sharing the waves.
MARK OCCHILUPO
So, Occ, how was it?
Definitely having flashbacks. I didn’t know whether to talk to him or not. We never used to talk, but I did say something. I said, “That was a nice looking wave,” and he was like, “Yeah.” T hat’s all he said. He wasn’t giving to much away (laughs). The funny thing was this morning I had my rashy (contest shirt) because I forgot to drop my rashy off, and I saw him walking down the boardwalk just before Kelly Slater’s heat and I pulled the rashy out of my pocket and said, “We’re on in five minutes.” And he went, “You’re fucking kidding me?” He didn’t swear but, I said, “Yeah, I’m kidding.” He’s like, “You’re the worst.” But it just felt really good. The waves didn’t come to the party but there was just too much energy out there, I think.
It’s a shame you didn’t get to surf during the brunt of the swell.
Nah, but they needed them for the contest.